The Great Italian Food Tour, Part II

Last time, I shared with you the amazing start to our Italian adventure – culinary style!  I covered our first night’s cooking class, gelato and pizza in San Gimignano, our most expensive meal in Venice, and how we happened upon the BEST taverna in Italy – and met Guiseppe!!!  Here we are for part two, which kicks off in Rome!

Our first night in Rome we arrived around 4pm and immediately hit the streets for an audio walking tour that we enjoyed via our free downloaded Rick Steves App!  I highly recommend this option for the adventurous traveler and will delve into this great traveling tool in another blog!!!

This evening we enjoyed some street food (and gelato) while we roamed the streets of ancient Rome, beginning at Fiore del Campo (the field of flowers) and ending at the Spanish Steps.  I won’t give too many details as I intend to do that another time, but let me just say there was a wonderful surprise around every corner and our hot paninis, espressos and slices of pizza did not disappoint!!!

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Our second day in Rome was a walking extravaganza!  We started off with egg sandwiches at home (the beauty of staying at an AirBnB is that you can make a few things at your home base and save money for the bigger meals) and hit the road for our Vatican Tour.  For lunch we stopped en-route to the Colosseum at a street side taverna and enjoyed wine (duh), pizza, caprese and more.  We had gelato at least once😊 and walked about 12 miles this day and it was HOT!!!!  But one of the best experiences of this day was our dinner….

Being Americans, we tend to eat earlier than most Europeans.  We were toast from a LONG day of touring and walking and headed to dinner near our accommodations around 6pm.  We picked a lovely taverna we had passed on the way to the Vatican (our “home” was about 3 blocks from the Vatican) and settled in for an amazing meal.  Our server was fabulous and the food was great – but what made THIS particular meal so memorable was the fact that near the end of our meal (when most Italians are thinking about going out to dinner) 20+ priests walked into the taverna to have dinner – it was like the set up for a joke, “Twenty priests walk into a bar….”!  It was so ROME – next door to the Vatican – and they just settled in to a great meal – now, we might have been a bit punchy with wine, too much walking and a gorgeous limoncello toast, but this rounded out our Roman experience like no other!!!!

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We departed Rome and headed for Sorrento.  On the way, we stopped at an Italian Autostrada rest stop – these cool inventions are fantastic and a cultural experience on their own and deserve to be highlighted.  These traditionally stretch OVER the highway and are pretty monstrous buildings.  They have restrooms, cool gift shops and WONDERFUL fresh cuisine that is not what you would expect at a rest area.  If you ever road trip in Italy, I highly encourage you to stop and check these out even if you don’t NEED to – it is an Italian experience!

Our arrival in Sorrento was thankfully, uneventful – aside from arriving early and having to wait on meeting our AirBnB host at our apartment – which, by the way, was lovely – more on that in another post.  We had been eating out a lot so this evening, my sister, Kelly, decided to cook for us, so we ventured down the street to the local Carrefour (European grocers that we have found in Italy, France and England and I am sure they are elsewhere – but you know what you will find there so that is nice once you are able to recognize some chains) and picked up some staples – eggs, wine, cured meats, cheese, pasta, bread, basil, coffee and chicken breast – and my sister made us an incredible homemade Italian meal!  It was great to eat at home, relax on the balcony and soak in the Sorrento charm.  That evening, we picked up our scooter rentals for our next day of touring (don’t miss THAT blog for sure!) and we walked off our dinner enjoying the winding ancient streets of Sorrento.  And we had gelato!!

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The next day was our self-touring scooter extravaganza – and memories we will never forget – especially the picnic lunch we enjoyed at Villa Cimbrone in the cliff-side Amalfi Coast town of Ravello.  We had planned a lovely picnic for this day of adventure including our meats, cheeses, bread and sweet treats and had the most delightful picnic in the most amazing setting on the Amalfi!  Picnicking is one of my favorite ways to really experience the joy and simplicity of Italian food, so don’t miss out on this classic culinary gem.  Here are a few pictures…

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Our final full day in Italy was anchored by a train ride to Pompeii and Rick Steves audio tour of this ancient delight.  I have, for a long time, been a connoisseur of history, culture, languages and people.  Pompeii is an iconic destination for people like me and in my book, only second to visiting the Great Pyramids of Giza (someday!!)  We had our customary breakfast at home, picked up some panini on the road, enjoyed some gelato in Pompeii, then had a lovely sunset dinner at a hotel across the street from our apartment.  Our last meal in Italy was a feast for the senses and as we had done so many times before, we each got a different dish and shared – and no one was disappointed.  This meal really highlighted the­­­­­­­­­­ unique and fresh cuisine of Sorrento – with daily caught fish, lemon risotto (let me tell you – there is NOTHING like a Sorrento lemon), gnocci with red sauce and wine!  It was a bittersweet meal that put the icing on an amazing culinary journey taken by four women, ready to taste Italy!!!

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I don’t know if you have noticed the theme aside from food, but it’s the people, the sights and the senses that are awakened by experiencing something different.  Travel is a story that unfolds through the eyes, the ears, the nose, the mouth and through touch.  It is one of our only activities that engages us on so many levels, and I believe that is why travel is something we desire so greatly.  There are so many adventures to have, people to meet and experiences to have.  Happy Travels!!

Indulge me a bit and enjoy this short time lapse video of us scooting our way up, up, up to the cliff side town of Ravello!

A Different Way to Stay

Do you know what I think is the BEST stay in Italy right now?  It’s the Agriturismo.  For those of you who may not be familiar with the agriturismo, they are “farm stays” in Italy. Kind of like renting a room on a working farm but with pizzazz!

Now, I’m not talking about a small cottage in the middle of nowhere and you have to milk the cows to earn your keep – although I bet you could find something like that if that is your cup of tea.  The agriturismos I have stayed in have been elegant, beautifully restored family homes that now accommodate guests in a setting similar to a bed and breakfast, but the key difference is the fact that the agriturismo must produce a certain percentage of agricultural goods – like olive oil, wine, limoncello, livestock, grains, veggies or fruits.

The original idea was to help support the dwindling number of family farms and save a way of life that is being forgotten; to preserve history.  To allow guests to wrap themselves in a true Italian experience and honor their family-based roots. I think the US could take a lesson here!

Agriturismos can be found in other place in Europe.  In my humble opinion, agriturismos are amazing!!!  They TEND to be less expensive than a traditional B&B (around $40 per person per night including breakfast) or hotel, and the food is fresh off the farm; the people are genuine, engaging and delightful, and the accommodations are typical fairytale-esque!  I have personally stayed in three different agriturismos, and while each of them have been different, they each had gorgeous qualities that made me want to return!!!

Let me tell you about my agriturismo adventures!  

When my husband and I traveled to Italy together in April 2016, we stayed in two agriturismos – one in Sorrento, operated by a lovely Italian Mama and her 3 sons, and a Tuscan vineyard agriturismo outside of San Gimignano, operated by the family that produces Palagetto wines.  

The Antico Casal Agriturismo in Sorrento was lovely – our first trip to Sorrento and our first farm stay.  We arrived late in the day after driving from Rimini that day (on the Adriatic side of Italy) and were welcomed with smiles, invitations to dinner and a beautiful room with a view of the incredible Sorrento hills – lush with citrus trees and olive groves.  Antico Casal boasted an amazing view of Sorrento from the rooftop terrace, where we first enjoyed the famous Aperol Spritz – my husband’s favorite summertime beverage. This is one of only a handful of agriturismos in Sorrento and took advantage of the sloping Sorrento geography with terraced plots for lemons and livestock.  

One fabulous story I would love to share (there are many – including finding my brother-in-law’s long lost brothers) is about the night we ate three pounds of fresh steak!  No kidding! So that morning, we got up early to do some sightseeing. We enjoyed our breakfast (fresh squeezed orange juice, pastries with NUTELLA in them – I have noticed a severe lack of peanut butter all over Europe – but at least they make up for it with nutella!), fresh yogurt and fruit.  We headed outside to take a quick walk out on the terrace and noticed a massive side of beef strung up under the pergola and the butcher hard at work. We learned that a week before our arrival, one of the beef cattle went to slaughter and here he was, returned, for our dinner! We marveled at the sheer magnitude of the butcher’s work ahead of him, and then left for the day dreaming of a gorgeous steak for dinner.

Little did we know that we would ONLY have steak for dinner!!!  Well, and a salad and dessert – but seriously – our hosts explained that they had spend ALL day butchering a preparing the beef so they had little time to prepare fresh pasta or another side, so we literally had a slab of beef each with a fresh bed of new greens!  Talk about meat sweats! Holy Cow! But it couldn’t have been fresher or any tastier! Oh and so you know, many agriturismos offer dinner with your stay for an additional cost – we have found that typically the dinner is about $25-$35 per person and that includes a started, one or two main courses, dessert, wine, limoncello and cappuccino – well worth the quality and quantity of food, but you are not obligated to eat there – just let them know in the morning if you will be there that evening so they have enough fresh food prepared.

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In Tuscany, we stayed at at the Torre Palegetto – about a mile from the ancient gates of San Gimignano – we had met up with my lovely sister-in-law and brother-in-law in Sorrento and enjoyed the second half of our trip with them.  We stayed in a two bedroom ancient tower (Torre) that was complete with a living room with an magnificent fireplace, a dining room and an adorable kitchen – and did I mention the TOWER!!! FAIRYTALE! It was enchanting and I cannot even describe how many checks on my wish list I got to mark after this stay!  

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Most recently, the amazing agriturismo we stayed at outside of San Gimignano this summer is called La Lucciolaia.  It is one of a few sister agriturismos owned by the Palagetto winery and they have renovated traditional Tuscan farms and towers into these beautiful rooms and homes away from home!  We were VERY pleased with our stay! We had two rooms on the lowest story of the farmhouse complete with our own patio with majestic views of San Gimignano in the distance! We stayed here for three lovely nights and used this centrally located base as our jumping off point for lots of sightseeing.  We spent time in Florence, took a train from Florence to Venice for a day, toured San Gimignano, took an amazing winery tour at the Palagetto Winery just minutes from our agriturismo and also had a private cooking lesson at our agriturismo from our chef the night we arrived. It was fantastic!!! I will expand on this more when I write about how we ate our way through Italy!

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Well, that was quite a Travel Tangent – but I highly recommend that if you are going to go on a do-it-yourself tour of Italy, you check out Agriturismos for at least some of your stays!

Time Flies….

I am embarrassed by how much TIME has gone by since my last post…..really!  In honor of time slipping away, I have posted some of my favorite quotes about time, as I am sure you are all aware of this fleeting phenomenon!

“Time flies when you’re multitasking.” 
― Bert McCoy

“There is never enough time to enjoy what you love.” 
― Joyce Rachelle

“The minutes rushed past, without compassion for my enthusiasm.” 
― Nicola Lecca, Ritratto notturno

“It is impossible for me to remember how many days or weeks went by in this way. Time is round, and it rolls quickly.” 
― Nikos Kazantzakis, Saint Francis

This spring and summer I have been consumed with growing my travel business and of course, with the joys and busyness of raising two kids who are involved in school/camp/sports/scouts and life!  I have let my blogging go and it’s time to grab the bull by the horn and jump back in the arena!

I have been working on my Italy journal and preparing for a new adventure with my daughter…details to come!  I hope you will continue to join me on these adventures and journey with me through this wide world of experiences!  Stay tuned!

What is your Why?

I am always interested in why some people love to travel – and conversely, why some people don’t even like leaving home.  I polled my class of study hall kids today (grades 9-11) and I loved their answers. They couldn’t be a better introduction to my own thoughts that I would like to share.  All who answered said they liked to travel – no one offered an opinion on why they might NOT like to travel. The four most popular responses were, “It gives me new experiences and a taste for a different place.”; “Plane rides are peaceful.”; “I get to see things from a new perspective.” and “It is different than normal life.”.  I couldn’t have said it better myself, but let me expand on their thoughts.

I have wondered if the need to travel is part of our DNA – a primal desire to find greener pastures, to never stop moving, to never get “caught” by whatever bad thing is chasing us.  That led me to my next thought; maybe we travel to run away. Is it a need to escape our everyday lives? We get so caught up in everyday – parenting, working, adulting.  It’s not that the everyday is bad, but it is routine.  It is mundane. It is repetitious and we are more creative than that. We are made to love, to quest, to wonder and to be in awe – but we DO get caught up in the everyday and forget how to do these things. I know I do. Do we travel because we need to rejuvenate our minds?

Do we love to travel because it allows us to take on even just a small part of who we wish we could be?  The first time I traveled to Europe I was 38. I had been plenty of other places, and I enjoyed them all, but when I traveled to Europe I felt at home.  I long to visit more and more castles; to learn about royal houses and I am a huge fan of Downton Abbey, The Queen and Victoria.  Does Europe feed my dream of being a princess?  Does it encapsulate my desire to experience life in a more simplistic way?  For me, travel opens doors and minds. It engages my soul and embraces my spirit.  Travel brings me closer to my dreams.

Do we travel because our parents did and that is what we know?  Maybe. When I was kid I went to Disney a few times (and I am still in love with the the whole idea of Disney everything), we road tripped to see family, we camped and when I was a senior in high school, my mom and I went to Aruba over Christmas break.  This might have been the pivotal trip that I took that cemented my love for travel. We rented a house, we drove around a place we had never been, we interacted with people who didn’t always speak English, we shopped with locals and we had a mouse that lived in our stove and lizards that lived on our walls.  It was mind blowing and magical! This trip challenged us and we grew because of it.

I have discovered that I have many reasons why I travel.  Certainly, all of the reasons mentioned above have played a role in my desires to travel over the years and each trip evolves as I do; my mindset, my worldview, and the season of life I am in.  I travel to make memories with my husband and children. If you asked me if I remember any presents I got as a kid at Christmas or my birthday, I would recall to you only one; a Cabbage Patch doll I received on my 10th birthday – her name is Diana and yes, I still have her.  That’s it! Ask me about the travel I did as a kid and I have wonderful memories to share. THAT is what I want to capture for my family, friends, and for my clients when I plan their travel. The gift of opportunity is greater than any material gift I can give, and for me, that is a big reason WHY I choose to travel.

The other big reason I love to travel is because it brings me closer to my family.  Some may not agree – some people argue more on vacation because of the stress of travel; the stress of the costs involved; kids acting up out of tiredness or overstimulation.  But for me, for US, adversity has always been something that brings us together. In another country, we are forced to reason out problems together. We have to solve mysteries created by language barriers and learn to navigate unfamiliar highways, country roads and public transportation.  When we travel, we NEED each other, and with so much independance today, that is a rarity. It no longer “takes a village to raise a child”, but it should – and for the Smith family, travel provides an opportunity for us to work together.

I view travel as an opportunity for growth.  An opportunity to relax. An opportunity to use skills I don’t get to use often.  Travel is an opportunity to make cultural and historical connections for myself and more importantly, my children.  I really want them to have a GLOBAL view of life and of humanity – not one that is inwardly focused and ego/ethnocentric. Travel provides me an opportunity to learn new things.  It challenges my perspective and sometimes I feel uncomfortable in situations that I didn’t plan for. What a wonderful thing that is!

So I ask you…what is YOUR why?  

The Journey Begins

I have felt for a while that I have been searching for something.  It is a strange feeling for someone who, by all appearances, has everything anyone could ask for; a wonderful husband, healthy children, a warm and beautiful home, a loving family, the ability and desire to help others, the joy of adventure and so much more!  I am truly blessed and I lead an extraordinary life.  I couldn’t put my finger on it – it wasn’t as though something was “missing”, but maybe misplaced or underexplored….and for a few years I have yearned to share with the world some of my passions – one of those is travel.

As a teacher by trade and life long learner by default, I have an innate desire to share with people the things that bring me joy; that fill up my senses, as John Denver would say.  I have been reluctant to take the leap – that journey towards inner peace and fulfillment can be a rough one and one that I wasn’t sure I was ready to take on.  But in the back of my mind a single song kept playing over and over.  The song is by one of my favorite bands – Switchfoot.  Their song, Live it Well, reminds me to be true to myself.  In doing so, I have taken on this journey and have become a travel planner and writer.  I hope to use this blog to not only share with people the destinations of my travels, but the journeys to get there, and the sum of these two important parts.  It’s not just about the journey or the destination – it’s about how they change you for the better.  Life is short….don’t miss out!

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton