Destinations with Daughters – Waning West – Day 8

We left the Glacier area around 8:30 this morning to head further west. Our journey took us back through some mountains and valleys to Flathead Lake, Montana – and WOW – how beautiful!

Just off the western arm of the lake on route 28 I fell in love with a valley – I think this has to be my next home.

We hit the beautiful mountains of Idaho with the border crossing and crossing into the Pacific Time Zone. It is strange that there is a place where at the very same time it is 10am one foot to the east and 9am one foot to the west. Humans sure do try to control everything!

As we came out of the mountains we rolled into Washington (and this stinkin’ border sign was IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY – our last stinkin’ state sign of our journey west and it was in the middle – OY VEY!) and reacquainted ourselves with prairie lands. The vastness and diversity in our country’s topography has never been lost on me, but during this trip I have truly marveled at how one minute we can be cruising down a snow covered mountain pass and the next making our way through “amber fields of grain”.

We arrived in Leavenworth, Washington around 4pm Pacific Time. We checked into our Bed and Breakfast, met our hosts and boogied down into town to get a bite to eat. I don’t know if you have ever heard of Leavenworth, but it is a little Bavarian town plopped down in the middle of the Washington mountains. It is ridiculously adorable and during the Christmas season, it is ridiculously busy!!! Here are a few pictures from us walking around tonight – day pictures will be on tap for tomorrow.

Every mile that goes by I feel more and more thankful for this life I have been given and cherish each and every hour I have spent on the road with Char. We have had some pretty great conversations that I would never have had with her if we wouldn’t have been “stuck” in a car for so many hours together. I am so excited I get to drive east with her a couple weeks.

Another detail that hasn’t been lost on me is that I feel totally at home on the road. I have joked that I am a first world nomad – and I think it is true. When I am traveling I have time to search my soul – driving for hours and hours on end provides ample opportunity for such introspection. I wonder why I am so restless; always needing to be busy – why I feel underchallenged and underachieving and yet, overwhelmed in my daily life with mundane tasks. I’m not sure if these answers will become evident as I travel on, but I’ll keep an open mind and an open heart and continue to be in awe of this great country in which I live.

Total Miles = 462

States = Montana, Idaho and Washington

Hours on the road = 8

Average Temperature = 42 degrees

Coffees = 1

Playlist = Hamilton the Musical, Twilight on audiobook and Slathbog’s Gold

Major Landmarks = Flathead Lake, Montana (gorgeous), Spokane, Washington, Columbia Basin

Speed Traps passed = 0

People not wearing masks in public places = This was hard to judge mostly because of Leavenworth at night – most people I saw in crowds were wearing masks. (BTW – I am only commenting on this aspect of what I am seeing traveling because I think a lot of people are worried about how the rest of the country is handling the whole mask thing – personally – I don’t care if you wear a mask or not – let freedom ring – but I will wear mine in public – especially right now as we are traveling across country. I do not want to be exposing myself and others that we are going to visit to something I picked up along the way – but I do not have a specific personal commentary on the good, bad, and ugly of masks – I just want to be informative)

Gas bought = $52.07

Extras = $63.00 (snacks on the road, coffee and dinner in Leavenworth

Hotel = $309.88 for two nights. We are staying for two nights in Leavenworth, WA at Haus Rohrbach Pension – a quaint Bed and Breakfast style Bavarian chalet perched just outside of the downtown area of Leavenworth. Char and I are in the Windsong room – a sweet little room with a queen sized bed and a day bed for Char.

Destinations with Daughters – Waning West – Day 7

After a lovely night’s sleep in our little log cabin in Columbia Falls, we awoke to do a little exploring.

Much of Glacier National Park is currently untouchable due to weather (Going-to-the-Sun Road is closed past the northernmost point of Lake McDonald as is typical during winter), but we took advantage of what we could and did a little hike and marveled at Lake McDonald and the spectacular cedar forests that call this area home.

I couldn’t get enough of the small, colorful, smooth rocks of the lake. At its middle, it is blustery, but at Apgar (the lake’s southern end), the lake is super still.

This evening, we went to a rodeo!!! It was so much fun and I had the best time! Even though we were strangers in a strange land, I felt at home – America honored throughout and God revered in public. Not everyone would agree with me, but that is why we live in America.

It is really hard to capture the action of a rodeo in pictures, but I tried. Yes, there are a lot of people. The rules were you had to keep on your mask while moving and seated unless you were actively eating and drinking. Many people were actively eating or drinking, but Char and I kept our masks on the entire time and had our 6 foot bubble and felt comfortable doing so. There was a mixture of people masking and not; a feeling of “you do you” and those who would not be comfortable in a crowd during these times certainly would not attend.

Today’s expenses – $70 for Huckleberry ice cream for Char, a huckleberry pie to bring to Papa, and some souvenirs. $24 for the Rodeo entrance fee.

Destinations with Daughters – Waning West – Day 6

This morning we left Yellowstone to head towards Glacier National Park. It was snowing slightly and we had the cutest farewell committee as we departed!

Our drive was beautiful and thankfully uneventful.

We arrived close to 4pm and easily found our accommodations for two nights – this ADORABLE cabin I found on-line, again for $100 per night. The other benefit of traveling in the off season is affordable lodging.

Tomorrow we will explore what we can of Glacier. The East Entrance is closed as it rests on Native American lands, and many of the roads are closed towards Avalanche and beyond to cars, but we will enjoy the gorgeous cedar forests and find ourselves some huckleberry ice cream!

A surprise awaits Char for the evening…..stay tuned!

Total Miles = 417

States = Wyoming and Montana

Hours on the road = 7.5 hours

Average Temperature = 32 degrees

Coffees = 2

Playlist = Hamilton the Musical (twice), The Beatles, James Taylor and Slathbog’s Gold since we lost service often and this book is downloaded!

Major Landmarks = departing Yellowstone, arriving outside Glacier.

Speed Traps passed = 0

People not wearing masks in public places = 3 – in the market at Hungry Horse, Montana (there is a state mandate but I think the area is so remote that there isn’t much enforcement).

Gas bought = $55.00

Extras = groceries bought in Hungry Horse, MT – two night’s worth of dinner – $35.00

Hotel = Two nights at the Cozy Cabin in Coram, MT = $245.37

Destinations with Daughters – Waning West – Day 3

We departed Minnesota pretty early so that we would have time to explore the Badlands in South Dakota. We headed out at 6am and we could not get Goggle Maps to work – so I had an idea of where we needed to go – but all of Google was down (Char couldn’t even get on to her classroom) – so we had to go old school for a bit with MapQuest – remember that? We got on our way and after an hour or so, Google was back on line so “Eliza” was back in business.

Our drive from Maple Grove, MN to meet Interstate 90 was gorgeous! As the sun rose we began to see the prairie lands of the US and we were enamored! The endless grasslands and fields with livestock were just what we needed – we were looking for a landscape different than our own and we finally got it! Oh, and the WINDMILLS!! Hundreds of them on the Minnesota prairie – oh and I saw an exit for Mankato (you know what I am talking about if you watched Little House on the Prairie).

We boogied to the South Dakota border – our only border crossing this day AND when we got to South Dakota, the state speed limit is 80 MPH! Hammer down, baby! Another great thing about South Dakota? Cheapest gas yet at $1.87 per gallon!

One of our pitstops along the was was the Corn Palace – we timed this with a gas pit stop but checked out the Corn Palace (an arena) and did some souvenir shopping across the street. It was a great way to stretch our legs.

Around 2pm we reached the Badlands – and WOW!!!!! We took the 29 mile driving loop through the main tourist portion of the park and saw absolutely stunning landscapes and a host of animals – a porcupine in a tree right above the road, mule deer, bighorn sheep (I thought these were rams but learned otherwise) and buffalo!!!! We actually got rather up close and personal with a handsome fellow and his two ladies.

Enjoy these photos of the stunning landscape and adorable fuzzy critters!

Total Miles = 676

States = Minnesota & South Dakota

Hours on the road = 13.5 (including stops and sight seeing)

Average Temperature = 16 degrees – it was stinkin’ cold!

Coffees = 1

Playlist = Hamilton the Musical (twice), The Best of Phil Collins, 80’s hits

Major Landmarks = The Missouri River, the American Prairie, the Corn Palace, Badlands National Park

Speed Traps passed = 1

People not wearing masks in public places = 0

Gas bought = $59.00

Extras = $54.00 (trinkets and food)

Bed & Breakfast = The White Tail Bed and Breakfast in Hermosa, SD. SUPER cute place for $100 a night! We also bought a picnic lunch to take on the road tomorrow for $8 each and the location of this B&B is perfect for sight seeing in the Mount Rushmore area!

Destinations with Daughters – Waning West – Day 2

Today was our longest driving day on our way west. To have a couple days in Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, we had to do it this way – but it was long. Add on top of that sleet this morning (and getting in 150 miles before the sun even came up) and blizzard like conditions for two hours as we approached Minnesota. I’m happy to be in our hotel room!

Char is enjoying her little “cubby” in the car! She has everything she needs at her fingertips and seems to be enjoying the long rides. What would a cross country trip at Christmastime be without Christmas lights, Sable and Charlie, the rainbow unicorn?

We trucked through a lot of states today! Here’s the proof (and Illinois is weird because we crossed the border at the City of Chicago line so there wasn’t much of a sign – but we made due!)

Apparently, my car started to worry about me because about every 250 miles without stopping, this sign pops up on my dash…

You might wonder why we were pushing so hard and going so far – well, to see the Mall of American, of course. And we got there just in time to pop in, walk around for 10 minutes, get some rainbow unicorn cotton candy with edible eyes and mouth, and head to our hotel. It was worth it!

Total Miles = 971

States = New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota

Hours on the road = 15.5 (including stops and sight seeing)

Average Temperature = 26.5 degrees

Coffees = 2

Playlist = Hamilton the Musical (twice), The Best of the Eagles, Pitch Perfect Soundtrack, 80’s & 90s hits

Major Landmarks = Cleveland, OH, Lake Michigan, the Mighty Mississippi River, Chicago and the Mall of America

Speed Traps passed = 4

People not wearing masks in public places = 2

Gas bought = $80.00

Extras = $54.00 (coffee and food)

Hotel = $108.00 – Holiday Inn and Suites, Maple Grove, MN – SUPER nice!!!! Great location and very nice lobby, rooms, staff and in non-Covid times, they have a really cool indoor water park open to guests. This Holiday Inn has a Venetian theme going on and we were really diggin’ it!

Travel Ornaments; A Year in Review….

People collect mementos of their travels, and one thing I collect is ornaments. Every year when we put up our tree, the ornaments from vacations past come out of the box and the trip is relived with joy, stories and laughter. It is EXACTLY why I travel and bring something home with me.

This year was a bit different. While we did still get in a couple of trips pre-COVID (Amsterdam and a girl’s trip to Punta Cana – and somehow I cannot find my ornament from that trip…), and still went to Disney and road tripped to South Carolina, we did miss out on a Disney cruise, a river cruise on the Rhine and my hubby missed a boy’s cruise to Mexico. There’s always next year!!!

Here are some memories and our ornaments…I know I will treasure them for many years to come. What do you bring home from your adventures?

Amsterdam – January 2020 – We LOVED this trip with friends – we can’t wait to go back!

Disney – August 2020

Southern Road Trip – Asheville, NC and Charleston, SC – November 2020

Southern Road Trip; Ghosts, Horses, and Fried Chicken, Oh My!

What would a vacation be without excursions and some anamzing food? Boring! LOL!

We sure did have a great time enjoying some sweet culinary delights while we were on vacation – I mean, the south is known for their comfort food, fried everything and hearty breakfasts and we enjoyed it all!

Our breakfasts in Charleston were enjoyed right around the corner from our Inn – they typically serve a home made breakfast on site, but because of COVID, they have teamed up with four local eateries to provide breakfast for their patrons. We LOVED Miller’s – the atmosphere, the food and they had a Bloody Mary selection that was fab (but you had to wait until 10am to get one)!

We loved the throwback feel of Millers All Day!

Our lunch was our standard picnic style meat and cheese…..

And dinner – well, let’s just say we had some fabulous food! Our favorites were The Charleston Grill (no pictures from this place because it was just TOO fancy – but I can tell you they had the most amazing foie gras in the universe!) and Husk – just a couple of blocks from our Inn. Aside from the dreamy setting – the food was spectacular!

This is Hearth Baked Skillet Cornbread, Benton’s Bacon Crumble.
Grilled Artisan Sourdough, Foie Gras-whipped Ricotta, Apples, Hakurei Turnips and Spiced Pecans. Delightful!
Southern Fried Manchester Farm Quail, Dirty Rice, Bradford Collards, and Louisiana Hot Sauce.
Warm apple cobbler with lavender ice cream….to DIE for!

Are you hungry yet?

Along with some great food, we also loved our carriage ride through historic Charleston.

And we also took a Ghost Tour Pub Crawl! We were treated to some spooky stories about the history of Charleston and enjoyed some beverages along the way!

We really had such a fabulous time on our trip! We really took advantage of all Charleston, SC and Asheville, NC had to offer in such a short visit and we really hope we have an opportunity to visit again!

And a road trip wouldn’t be complete without TRYING to get a photo at each state line!!! Here’s to over 2200 miles traveled in eight days and as many memories cherished and made!!!!

Southern Road Trip…Plantations – Days 5 and 7

This very cold day is making me think fondly about our plantation visits a couple of weeks ago! The weather was mild, the sun was out and watching the Spanish moss blow in the breeze was dreamy!

We visited Magnolia Plantation and Middleton Place Rice Plantation. There were distinct differences between the two, but I would be hard pressed to pick which was my favorite!

Magnolia Plantation dates back to the 1600s. This is significant in its style – it has a much more romantic feel than its cousin, Middleton Place, up the river. The winding pathways through its freeform gardens make me dream of wind swept muslin gowns swishing around young ladies laughing at a garden party.

We toured the extensive gardens, the house (which is not the first main house on the property – between fires and retreating Union soldiers, these riverside plantations took a beating over the years), took a tram tour of the swamps and old rice flats and had a fabulous time in their lovely little zoo.

This plantation is absolutely gorgeous and a must see if you visit Charleston, in my opinion. When I lived in the area over 20 years ago, I remember visiting Magnolia and it is just as lovely as I remember!

Middleton Place (it used to be “Plantation”, but they thought the word had a negative connotation so they changed it to “Place” – a little too revisionist for me) was built largely in the 1700s and the style and layout reflected the “newer” techniques and agendas of the more modern version of Magnolia. Again, the house standing as the main house is not the original, like Magnolia, as they suffered the same fate.

The grounds of Middleton are glorious! They are not the meandering “romantic” style of Magnolia, but rather employ the fine lines and purposeful plantings like a traditional English or French garden of the times. The Live Oaks that line the passageways and Ashley River are wrapped in Spanish moss and southern charm, and alligators sun themselves on the shores.

This “Gone with the Wind” view of Plantation life is easy to fall in to, but the truth is, it was a harsh place – especially for those enslaved, who worked the land and cared for the people, livestock and estates. Between these two plantations, over time, thousands of people were owned and suffered under the institution of slavery. They suffered through swamp miasmas, harsh weather, dangerous creatures, poor living conditions, and treatment that folks today cannot fathom. Their knowledge, strength and forced participating in genteel life were the foundation of such extreme prosperity.

At both Magnolia and Middleton, Kelly and I took additional “tours” to learn about the enslaved peoples who were the backbone of these gorgeous estates. The dichotomy of the beauty of the place, verses the method in which it got that way, creates confusing feelings to say the least. But these places are worth the study and preservation. They provide lessons from which we, as modern people still navigating our way through the love of all peoples, can reflect. History is about the good, the bad, and the ugly, and plantations certainly have it all.

Here are some extra pictures of our two plantation visits. I hope you can feel the warm southern breezes wash over you as you look at them!

Southern Road Trip – Day 4; the trip to Charleston, SC

Some of you may not know this, but when I first graduated college with a teaching degree (in December of 1997), I came to Charleston to teach for the spring semester at a local middle school. The teaching was challenging and rewarding as all first teaching jobs should be, but one of my best memories of my six months here is how I fell in love with Charleston.

Charleston is STEEPED in history. To say it is one of American’s most historical cities would be an understatement. And for a history buff like me, this city really has my heart! I love the architecture of the city, the flora, the food, the hospitality, the art, the people and the action. These are parts of culture and history that are easy to love.

We are staying here for four nights in probably the most historic building I have ever stayed in. We are staying at the Governor’s House Inn, former home to the Laurens Family (think Hamilton in pop culture and a LONG list of other accomplishments) and the Rutledge family (youngest signer of the Declaration of Independence, among other honors). This house has entertained George Washington and Gerald Ford!

In fact, we are staying in the Washington Suite; a converted Kitchen House and our home away from home.

The Kitchen House, Governor’s House Inn, Charleston, SC

During our stay, we will visit Magnolia Plantation, Middleton Rice Plantation, enjoy some fabulous meals, stroll endlessly admiring the historical homes of Charleston, tour mansions and walk miles. And while my romanticism with the south largely revolves around the PLACE, other parts of the south’s history are tougher to admire, but I honor the struggles, the hardships, the rebellions, the perseverance and the spirit that, through the decades, have taught ME a lot about humanity and have shaped my views on humankind and love. We cannot turn our backs on the hard parts of history or pretend they didn’t happen – what a disservice to those who have struggled to enlighten us. Instead, we have to wallow in our failures as a people and as a country in order to understand what we got wrong and what we got right.

Here are some of my favorite photos from strolling around Charleston.

Southern Road Trip – Days 1 & 2

As we have been navigating the 2020 travel scene, we have been trying to figure out what our husband/wife vacation was going to look like this year.

Plan A was a river boat cruise in Europe, Plan B was an all inclusive trip to Costa Rica, and when those fell through for one reason or another, Plan C emerged and the Smith Southern Road Trip was born.

We sure love a good old fashioned American Road Trip! And I have always wanted to get my husband to Charleston, SC….so Plan C became Plan Charleston!

We departed on Saturday at 6:30am (only 30 minutes late after discovering that in the 13 degree weather, our furnace had stopped working over night – after trouble shooting, replacing the filter, and making sure it was up and running, we hit the road).

Our first stop along the way was Winchester, Virginia. We used this destination as great hold over location and stayed at The George Washington. This was fabulously located just a block from the pedestrian zone and being that few people are traveling, we got a great rate!

We arrived near 5pm after 9 states and nearly 600 miles.

We enjoyed a lovely stroll (seeing lots of masked trick or treaters) and a great dinner al fresco!

Sunday morning we were at it again, headed to Asheville, North Carolina. We hit the road around 6:30am and our plan was to take the Blue Ridge Parkway from Staunton, VA to Roanoke. As we approached Staunton, the weather turned pretty nasty with winds, heavy rain and fog…..but we persevered!

In spite of the crazy weather, the sun broke through finally as we approached the end of our trek on the Blue Ridge, but even through the fog, wind and rain, the beauty of the area was evident and we are so glad we stayed the course!

We arrived in Asheville around 4pm (after purposely taking some wrong turns through the valleys and hills of the Great Smokey Mountains) just in time to unpack and get ready to meet up with some friends we haven’t seen since our Eleuthera winters! We cherish friendships that pick up right where we left them and would have taken pictures but we were too busy laughing, reminiscing and eating at Tupelo Honey!

Day 3 is our visit to a bucket list destination for me….Biltmore Estate!